A Guide to SPF
Beauty
June 23, 2023
Author: Doré
Beauty
June 23, 2023
A Guide to SPF
Author: Doré
So this story is about sunscreen. Not exactly the sexiest of topic, I know. But to be fair, neither is a décolletage that looks like vintage cowhide. So I’m going to do my best to sex this up for you so that not only will you have better, smoother skin for longer (because you know, it’s the number one skin ager and all), you may even retain some of this info and become a sunscreen bandit too.We have a lot of questions to answer, like what is SPF in sunscreen? And what does SPF even mean?Now, here’s what you need to know. There are two types of sunscreens and they both operate very differently.Physical vs. Chemical SunscreenYou’ll often hear either the term physical (or mineral) sunscreen, or chemical sunscreen used to describe different types of sunscreen. These terms are referring to the active ingredients that are being used in your sunscreen to protect you from the UVA and UVB rays from the sun (the ones that when exposed to in excess contribute to burns, aging, sunspots, etc.).Physical SunscreenThese use minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to physically block and reflect the sun from your skin. These are great for people with sensitive skin or allergies because zinc, in particular, has a low allergen rate. It’s been thought that inorganic sunscreens create a protective barrier on the surface of your skin that reflects and scatters UV rays away from your body. However, recent research suggests that inorganic sunscreens actually protect skin by absorbing up to 95% of the rays.Physical sunscreens typically leave behind a white cast, unless you’re using a tinted product or one that uses nanotechnology to break down particles. Also, while physical sunscreens are branded as “natural,” most are not and need to be processed with synthetic chemicals in order to glide smoothly onto your skin.Chemical SunscreenThese work by using some magic sorcery (“science”) to convert the harmful UVA and UVB rays into non-harmful heat and send them back out into the ether. Or, as Park Avenue plastic surgeon Dr. Melissa Doft simply explains, “chemical sunscreens absorb the rays so that they’re not transmitted to your skin.” These tend to be better for sport or active days because they’re more sweat and water-resistant.Which One Should You Use?Well, whichever one you prefer based on your skin type, clean preferences, etc. When opting for a physical sunscreen, you do need to look for one with at least a 10% concentration of zinc oxide to get broad-spectrum coverage. Also, look out for infrared protection. Traditional sunscreens don’t protect from these rays, which travel deep into the layers of the skin causing free radical damage. However, it is becoming more common so look out for products that do both.The SP FactorNow grab some wine because we’re going to talk about sun protection factor (also known as SPF, or sunscreen factor), which is weird and confusing and not linear – which as a non-numbers person breaks my tiny brain. And rosé definitely helps.A sunscreen with an SPF 30 filters around 97 percent of UVB rays, whereas an SPF 50 blocks around 98 percent – and the increase is even more minimal after 50+. See, what the SPF actually tells you is how long you’re protected for.So how long does SPF 30 last? Dr. Doft explains, “it measures how much solar energy is required to burn skin that’s protected by sunscreen, so if at midday it would take you 10 minutes without sunscreen to get red, wearing SPF 30 would prevent this for 300 minutes.” And this is why reapplying every two to three hours is necessary, even if it clashes with Spritz O’Clock.What SPF Should I Use?It’s recommended to use an SPF 30 or above all year round. However, if you have sensitive skin or are fair, consider using a factor 50 and scalp sun protection. You’re advised to protect children with no less than an SPF 50 or to choose very high protection for especially fair children and babies.Only Buy Broad SpectrumWhen trying to figure out what SPF do I need, it’s important to factor in broad spectrum in addition to SPF. Really simply put, UVA rays are the aging, dermis-destroying ones, and UVB’s are the ones responsible for surface damage – like sunburn. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against both, and you should always be buying a SPF 30 or higher. Usually the two ingredients that provide UVA coverage are avobenzone and zinc oxide, so you want to make sure your sunscreen has one of these.How to choose the right SPF product for your skin typeDepending on your skin type you may have different needs when it comes to which SPF is right for you, the same way you would with any other skincare.Oily Skin- Look for lighter weight, oil free products, as well as non-comedogenic options to avoid clogging pores.- Quite a few sunscreens that have a high SPF factor tend to have a thicker consistency, and this heavier consistency can leave your skin feeling clogged and sticky. This is far from ideal, especially if your skin is already quite oily - your pores may already prone to getting clogged and developing blemishes.- Look out for: Oil-free, lightweight creams, gels, fluids, lotions and mineral powders that won’t leave your skin feeling greasy or congested.Sensitive Skin- Look for SPFs that don’t contain certain ingredients, particularly alcohols or essential oils, that can irritate sensitive or blemish-prone skin.- If your skin is extremely sensitive, try a mineral powder sunscreen instead. However, as it can be rubbed off more easily, also remember to reapply.- Look out for: Lightweight or mineral powder sunscreens that contain minimal ingredients and no fragrances that can aggravate skin.Dry Skin- Choose lightweight, hydrating SPFs that also act as a moisturizing face cream. They deliver a double action boost by hydrating skin as well as protecting it from the sun. But remember to always apply your SPF as it’s own step, not just as part of your moisturizer - we’re talking about adding extra hydration when applying your SPF.- Look out for: Hydrating and moisturizing SPFs that are packed full of moisture-enhancing ingredients, like hyaluronic acid.Combination Skin- Stick to a lightweight SPF that will provide protection without flooding your skin with too much heavy product and block your pores, while also providing moisture where it’s needed too.- Look out for: SPF gel formulations that aren’t too thick or greasy, but will still provide adequate moisture.Should you wear spf everyday?Yes, you do need it daily:Even in winter. Even on overcast days. Those rays are mighty and can penetrate glass, plus up to 80 percent of UV rays can pass through clouds.Apply it right:Chemical sunscreens need to bond to your skin, so apply to a fresh face directly after you cleanse. Also, they need 20 minutes for the bonding to happen so you can’t just slap it on and run out the door. Physical blockers go on at the end of your skin routine. And finally, make sure you’re using enough – the average person in a bathing suit needs a full ounce (or a full shot glass) to cover all exposed areas, including your face. If you’re at the beach for the day with your family — say, 6 hours out in the sun — each person needs at least a 3-ounce bottle all to themselves. If you’re not in the water, throw on a shirt and hat and sit in the shade. Every bit of coverage makes a difference. Those with dark skin tones and those who tan easily shouldn’t skimp, either. Your skin tone shouldn’t decide how much sunscreen you wear. Everyone, regardless of skin color, should apply an adequate amount of sunscreen to ensure full protection.Don’t forget to reapply:You might be wondering how often do you need to apply sunscreen? The answer is, every two hours. Set a timer on your phone to help you remember to reapply.But, what about vitamin D?It’s true that we all need vitamin D: it’s good for bones, health and general happiness. And yes, vitamin D deficiency is not good news, and we should all be aware of it.But, how much we need depends on a whole host of things including age, ethnicity, body weight, health, where we live, time of year (and more). Some experts will recommend 15 minutes of exposed sunlight multiple times a week (in the morning, when the sun is less harsh, and for very limited time), but again many things can affect how much of vitamin D you get from that sunlight, including whether you live in the city, your skin color and the pollution levels.If you’re concerned about your vitamin D levels, you can have these checked by a healthcare professional, and take supplements to support these levels, as well as eating foods rich in vitamin D and antioxidants.What about toxicity?Yes, chemical sunscreens do contain chemical active ingredients. And some of those will be absorbed into your body through the skin. The FDA has not looked into the potential hazards of these filters and there is little information or conclusive evidence about most of these active ingredients to determine whether they are in fact toxic – the exception of course being oxybenzone, which really should be avoided.If you’re concerned about toxicity, opt for a zinc based physical block (but avoid ones with nano particles until we know more on them), and check out the Environmental Working Group’s table on active ingredient toxicity to see how your sunscreen fares.How can I avoid skin reactions?Stay away from Oxybenzone: This ingredient is common in sunscreen however, as Dr. Doft explains “it’s been shown to cause allergic reactions and to act as a weak estrogen with anti-androgenic effects.” It can also cause skin reactions, despite being approved by the FDA. Interestingly, Hawaii also recently banned sunscreens with oxybenzone, but for a whole different reason: because it was contributing to the destruction of the island’s coral reefs and ocean creatures… which pretty much speaks for itself.Ingestible sunscreen is a thingThough the jury is still out on whether these are effective (especially as the protection factor is so low), there are now pills and drinks that claim to have sunscreen protection benefits. These use high level antioxidants to fight free radicals which help protect again cellular damage, but experts advise that these shouldn’t replace, but be in addition to traditional sunscreen.Our Sunscreen FavoritesOnce you have your bearings on what kind of sunscreen is right for you, we thought we’d offer a few suggestions of our favorites.
So this story is about sunscreen. Not exactly the sexiest of topic, I know. But to be fair, neither is a décolletage that looks like vintage cowhide. So I’m going to do my best to sex this up for you so that not only will you have better, smoother skin for longer (because you know, it’s the number one skin ager and all), you may even retain some of this info and become a sunscreen bandit too.We have a lot of questions to answer, like what is SPF in sunscreen? And what does SPF even mean?Now, here’s what you need to know. There are two types of sunscreens and they both operate very differently.Physical vs. Chemical SunscreenYou’ll often hear either the term physical (or mineral) sunscreen, or chemical sunscreen used to describe different types of sunscreen. These terms are referring to the active ingredients that are being used in your sunscreen to protect you from the UVA and UVB rays from the sun (the ones that when exposed to in excess contribute to burns, aging, sunspots, etc.).Physical SunscreenThese use minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to physically block and reflect the sun from your skin. These are great for people with sensitive skin or allergies because zinc, in particular, has a low allergen rate. It’s been thought that inorganic sunscreens create a protective barrier on the surface of your skin that reflects and scatters UV rays away from your body. However, recent research suggests that inorganic sunscreens actually protect skin by absorbing up to 95% of the rays.Physical sunscreens typically leave behind a white cast, unless you’re using a tinted product or one that uses nanotechnology to break down particles. Also, while physical sunscreens are branded as “natural,” most are not and need to be processed with synthetic chemicals in order to glide smoothly onto your skin.Chemical SunscreenThese work by using some magic sorcery (“science”) to convert the harmful UVA and UVB rays into non-harmful heat and send them back out into the ether. Or, as Park Avenue plastic surgeon Dr. Melissa Doft simply explains, “chemical sunscreens absorb the rays so that they’re not transmitted to your skin.” These tend to be better for sport or active days because they’re more sweat and water-resistant.Which One Should You Use?Well, whichever one you prefer based on your skin type, clean preferences, etc. When opting for a physical sunscreen, you do need to look for one with at least a 10% concentration of zinc oxide to get broad-spectrum coverage. Also, look out for infrared protection. Traditional sunscreens don’t protect from these rays, which travel deep into the layers of the skin causing free radical damage. However, it is becoming more common so look out for products that do both.The SP FactorNow grab some wine because we’re going to talk about sun protection factor (also known as SPF, or sunscreen factor), which is weird and confusing and not linear – which as a non-numbers person breaks my tiny brain. And rosé definitely helps.A sunscreen with an SPF 30 filters around 97 percent of UVB rays, whereas an SPF 50 blocks around 98 percent – and the increase is even more minimal after 50+. See, what the SPF actually tells you is how long you’re protected for.So how long does SPF 30 last? Dr. Doft explains, “it measures how much solar energy is required to burn skin that’s protected by sunscreen, so if at midday it would take you 10 minutes without sunscreen to get red, wearing SPF 30 would prevent this for 300 minutes.” And this is why reapplying every two to three hours is necessary, even if it clashes with Spritz O’Clock.What SPF Should I Use?It’s recommended to use an SPF 30 or above all year round. However, if you have sensitive skin or are fair, consider using a factor 50 and scalp sun protection. You’re advised to protect children with no less than an SPF 50 or to choose very high protection for especially fair children and babies.Only Buy Broad SpectrumWhen trying to figure out what SPF do I need, it’s important to factor in broad spectrum in addition to SPF. Really simply put, UVA rays are the aging, dermis-destroying ones, and UVB’s are the ones responsible for surface damage – like sunburn. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against both, and you should always be buying a SPF 30 or higher. Usually the two ingredients that provide UVA coverage are avobenzone and zinc oxide, so you want to make sure your sunscreen has one of these.How to choose the right SPF product for your skin typeDepending on your skin type you may have different needs when it comes to which SPF is right for you, the same way you would with any other skincare.Oily Skin- Look for lighter weight, oil free products, as well as non-comedogenic options to avoid clogging pores.- Quite a few sunscreens that have a high SPF factor tend to have a thicker consistency, and this heavier consistency can leave your skin feeling clogged and sticky. This is far from ideal, especially if your skin is already quite oily - your pores may already prone to getting clogged and developing blemishes.- Look out for: Oil-free, lightweight creams, gels, fluids, lotions and mineral powders that won’t leave your skin feeling greasy or congested.Sensitive Skin- Look for SPFs that don’t contain certain ingredients, particularly alcohols or essential oils, that can irritate sensitive or blemish-prone skin.- If your skin is extremely sensitive, try a mineral powder sunscreen instead. However, as it can be rubbed off more easily, also remember to reapply.- Look out for: Lightweight or mineral powder sunscreens that contain minimal ingredients and no fragrances that can aggravate skin.Dry Skin- Choose lightweight, hydrating SPFs that also act as a moisturizing face cream. They deliver a double action boost by hydrating skin as well as protecting it from the sun. But remember to always apply your SPF as it’s own step, not just as part of your moisturizer - we’re talking about adding extra hydration when applying your SPF.- Look out for: Hydrating and moisturizing SPFs that are packed full of moisture-enhancing ingredients, like hyaluronic acid.Combination Skin- Stick to a lightweight SPF that will provide protection without flooding your skin with too much heavy product and block your pores, while also providing moisture where it’s needed too.- Look out for: SPF gel formulations that aren’t too thick or greasy, but will still provide adequate moisture.Should you wear spf everyday?Yes, you do need it daily:Even in winter. Even on overcast days. Those rays are mighty and can penetrate glass, plus up to 80 percent of UV rays can pass through clouds.Apply it right:Chemical sunscreens need to bond to your skin, so apply to a fresh face directly after you cleanse. Also, they need 20 minutes for the bonding to happen so you can’t just slap it on and run out the door. Physical blockers go on at the end of your skin routine. And finally, make sure you’re using enough – the average person in a bathing suit needs a full ounce (or a full shot glass) to cover all exposed areas, including your face. If you’re at the beach for the day with your family — say, 6 hours out in the sun — each person needs at least a 3-ounce bottle all to themselves. If you’re not in the water, throw on a shirt and hat and sit in the shade. Every bit of coverage makes a difference. Those with dark skin tones and those who tan easily shouldn’t skimp, either. Your skin tone shouldn’t decide how much sunscreen you wear. Everyone, regardless of skin color, should apply an adequate amount of sunscreen to ensure full protection.Don’t forget to reapply:You might be wondering how often do you need to apply sunscreen? The answer is, every two hours. Set a timer on your phone to help you remember to reapply.But, what about vitamin D?It’s true that we all need vitamin D: it’s good for bones, health and general happiness. And yes, vitamin D deficiency is not good news, and we should all be aware of it.But, how much we need depends on a whole host of things including age, ethnicity, body weight, health, where we live, time of year (and more). Some experts will recommend 15 minutes of exposed sunlight multiple times a week (in the morning, when the sun is less harsh, and for very limited time), but again many things can affect how much of vitamin D you get from that sunlight, including whether you live in the city, your skin color and the pollution levels.If you’re concerned about your vitamin D levels, you can have these checked by a healthcare professional, and take supplements to support these levels, as well as eating foods rich in vitamin D and antioxidants.What about toxicity?Yes, chemical sunscreens do contain chemical active ingredients. And some of those will be absorbed into your body through the skin. The FDA has not looked into the potential hazards of these filters and there is little information or conclusive evidence about most of these active ingredients to determine whether they are in fact toxic – the exception of course being oxybenzone, which really should be avoided.If you’re concerned about toxicity, opt for a zinc based physical block (but avoid ones with nano particles until we know more on them), and check out the Environmental Working Group’s table on active ingredient toxicity to see how your sunscreen fares.How can I avoid skin reactions?Stay away from Oxybenzone: This ingredient is common in sunscreen however, as Dr. Doft explains “it’s been shown to cause allergic reactions and to act as a weak estrogen with anti-androgenic effects.” It can also cause skin reactions, despite being approved by the FDA. Interestingly, Hawaii also recently banned sunscreens with oxybenzone, but for a whole different reason: because it was contributing to the destruction of the island’s coral reefs and ocean creatures… which pretty much speaks for itself.Ingestible sunscreen is a thingThough the jury is still out on whether these are effective (especially as the protection factor is so low), there are now pills and drinks that claim to have sunscreen protection benefits. These use high level antioxidants to fight free radicals which help protect again cellular damage, but experts advise that these shouldn’t replace, but be in addition to traditional sunscreen.Our Sunscreen FavoritesOnce you have your bearings on what kind of sunscreen is right for you, we thought we’d offer a few suggestions of our favorites.
And remember, after a day of wearing your SPF, it’s crucial to properly cleanse and get all of the SPF off before bed. And follow up with some moisturizer as well.
And remember, after a day of wearing your SPF, it’s crucial to properly cleanse and get all of the SPF off before bed. And follow up with some moisturizer as well.